Understanding your fiber mill’s intake form
Filling out a fiber mill intake form can feel overwhelming at first, but it’s really about making sure you get the yarn or roving you want from your wool. Doing your homework here means you’ll be helping your mill produce the best product possible from your beautiful fiber. Here’s a very basic breakdown of the key parts you’ll encounter and what each means:
1. Grist
Grist refers to the thickness or weight of your finished yarn—think lace, fingering, worsted, or bulky. If you have a specific project in mind, check what grist that pattern calls for, or bring a sample of yarn you like. If you’re unsure, ask your mill—they can help you choose the right weight for your fiber and project.
Grist refers to the thickness or weight of your finished yarn—think lace, fingering, worsted, or bulky. If you have a specific project in mind, check what grist that pattern calls for, or bring a sample of yarn you like. If you’re unsure, ask your mill—they can help you choose the right weight for your fiber and project.
2. Number of Plies
Ply is how many individual strands are twisted together to make your finished yarn. A 2-ply yarn is made from two singles, a 3-ply from three, and so on. More plies make yarn rounder and sturdier, while single-ply yarns are softer and loftier. If you want classic, balanced yarn, 2- or 3-ply is a safe bet.
Ply is how many individual strands are twisted together to make your finished yarn. A 2-ply yarn is made from two singles, a 3-ply from three, and so on. More plies make yarn rounder and sturdier, while single-ply yarns are softer and loftier. If you want classic, balanced yarn, 2- or 3-ply is a safe bet.
3. Length of Skein
You’ll be asked how long you want each skein to be, usually measured in yards or meters. Common skein lengths are 100 or 200 yards, but you can request whatever works for your projects or selling preferences. If you don’t specify, the mill may use a standard length.
You’ll be asked how long you want each skein to be, usually measured in yards or meters. Common skein lengths are 100 or 200 yards, but you can request whatever works for your projects or selling preferences. If you don’t specify, the mill may use a standard length.
4. Finished Product
Be clear about what you’d like back—washed fleece, roving, batts, yarn, or a combination. If you want yarn, specify details like grist, ply, and skein size. For spinning fiber, let the mill know if you want combed top, carded roving, or batts.
Be clear about what you’d like back—washed fleece, roving, batts, yarn, or a combination. If you want yarn, specify details like grist, ply, and skein size. For spinning fiber, let the mill know if you want combed top, carded roving, or batts.
5. Add-Ons and Special Requests
Some forms include options for washing, dyeing, or blending your fiber with others (like silk or alpaca). Make sure to check all that apply, and use the notes section for anything special you want the mill to know.
Some forms include options for washing, dyeing, or blending your fiber with others (like silk or alpaca). Make sure to check all that apply, and use the notes section for anything special you want the mill to know.
Tips for Success:
- Read through the entire form before filling it out.
- If you’re unsure about a term or option, ask your mill—they’re there to help!
- Double-check your contact info and fiber labels so everything matches up when it’s time for pick-up or shipping.
Taking a few extra minutes to understand and fill out your intake form ensures you’ll get the best possible results for your precious fiber!
Here are a few tips from my own experience:
I’ve been at this a long time, and while most of my experiences with mills have been positive, there were definitely a few learning curves along the way. When I first started out, mills had strict minimums—if you didn’t have at least ten pounds, they wouldn’t even consider your order. So when single-fleece processing became available, it felt like an absolute game-changer. Suddenly, every fleece could get its own special treatment, and I loved the idea of highlighting the unique qualities of each animal.
But as my business has evolved—and especially now that I’m running a retail operation—my thinking has shifted quite a bit. These days, I’ve realized it actually makes a lot more sense, from a consistency standpoint, to process as much fiber together as possible. This was a lesson I learned thanks to the wise advice of my designer friend, Jenn Lampen (shoutout to Jenn!). Here’s the thing: when you process just a single fleece, you might end up with 10–30 skeins, which sounds like plenty at first glance. But if you want to build kits, work with designers, or keep your product line cohesive, that’s not nearly enough. Suddenly, you’re left with a jumble of mismatched single skeins that are hard to market together. Don’t get me wrong—processing single fleeces is fantastic for personal projects or showcasing a special animal. But if you’re thinking from a business perspective, keeping your batches as uniform as possible really pays off in the long run.